British Columbia’s capital city, Victoria is situated just 100 kilometers from Seattle and is a fantastic destination for both Canadian and American citizens who want to experience some of the best cool water diving the world has to offer. With a number of wrecks, plus plentiful shore diving, not to mention outstanding marine life, it’s no wonder that divers from across the planet have added the area to their personal diving “bucket lists.” Of the many sites accessible only by boat, some stand out from the rest. Here are just five to help you begin with your own dive planning.
Race Rocks
If you love the idea of diving with harbor seals, plus encountering plenty of other marine life, Race Rocks is an exceptional place to do just that. Located 17 kilometers southwest of Victoria, about 1.5 kilometers from Vancouver Island’s southern tip, it is the southernmost portion of Canada’s Coast. An ecological reserve established in 1980, the site is washed by strong tides and is comprised of nine islets, including Great Race, from which the Race Rocks light station, Western Canada’s second oldest lighthouse, rises up. An important nesting ground for cormorants, gulls, oystercatchers, and other seabirds, it is also a stopover for migratory species. Besides the harbor seals, you may be lucky enough to encounter Stellar and California Sea Lions, along with the occasional family of Northern Elephant Seals.
With walls, kelp forests, and massive boulders where you can find splendid orange hydroids and hydrocorals, lush anemones, and even red soft coral, the area is a photographer’s dream come true. Besides the many pinnipeds, there are king crab, a variety of rockfish, huge lingcod, masses of brilliantly colored sea stars in shades from yellow to purple, and even the occasional whale sighting. Be careful of the current and go with an experienced guide, and look for the remains of the more than 100 ships which have wrecked in the area over the last two centuries.
Swordfish Island
Located in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, just off Vancouver Island, about 6 nautical miles southwest of Pedder Bay and 2 ½ nautical miles southeast of Beacher Bay, Swordfish Island is separated from Church Point by a narrow channel which disappears at low tide, leaving the two bodies of land connected. The egg shaped island’s best feature is a tunnel located at its south end, the top of which is visible at low tide. You can either swim through the island, or go around it; plus there is a huge kelp forest that runs along the island’s northeast edge. While the area offshore offers maximum depth at 18-24 meters, the tunnel is just 3 meters deep. Here, you’ll find brilliant red soft coral and huge basket stars, plus the tunnel walls are covered with anemones. Nudibranchs, gunnels, rockfish, and octopus are just a few of the creatures you’ll encounter inside; out in the kelp forest, there are loads of greenling, sculpins, and lingcod, along with red Irish lords and lots of crustaceans. Use caution as current does run through the tunnel, and as despite its shallow depth, it is an overhead environment. This dive should only be undertaken by those who are properly trained and equipped.
Discovery Island and Plumper Passage
Named in honor of the HMS Discovery, which was apt of the 18th century Vancouver expedition, Discovery Island is situated near Vancouver Island’s southeast tip, approximately three miles from Oak Bay. Here, a splendid lighthouse marks the junction of Juan de Fuca strait and Haro strait, which come together at Sea Bird Point, on the island’s eastern end. Built in 1886 and only fully automated in 1996, the lighthouse is now the centerpiece of the Discovery Island Marine Provincial Park. With shallow reefs in 12-15 meters of water, plus mystical kelp beds in a depth up to 36 meters, the waters that surround the island are teeming with life large and small. Huge schools of perch and rockfish live here, along with greenlings and some very large lingcod. Reefs and overhangs swathed in masses of plumose anemones, stands of red soft coral, and beautiful encrusting algae and sponges add even more magic to the site, which is absolutely fantastic. Use caution as you make your way through Plumper Passage; its currents can be erratic, and there is lots of boat traffic, particularly on weekends. Despite the site’s relatively shallow features near shore, it is suitable only for experienced, properly equipped divers.
Strongtide Island
Named for its sweeping currents, which run through Baynes Channel, Strongtide Island is situated across from Ten Mile Point at the northwest edge of the Chatham Islands group. With often incredible visibility and a forest of bull kelp, plus boulders surrounded by brilliant white sand and covered in a blanket of purple sea urchins, the site features rocky reefs, walls, steep canyons, and massive rock formations, all of which are covered in yellow sulphur sponges, feathery hydroids, plumose anemones, pink encrusting corals, and even crimson anemones and cup corals. You’ll find nudibranchs here in abundance, plus kelp greenlings and lingcod, buffalo sculpins, and quillback rockfish, to name a few. A huge anchor can be found in the area, and though no wreck has been found, it is entirely likely that there is at least one old ship lying on the bottom somewhere nearby, though it is likely covered in life and completely collapsed due to the swift, continual current. Maximum depth is about 22 meters, though there is plenty to see in much shallower water; due to challenging conditions, the site is suitable only for experienced divers.
Chain Islets
Part of the Oak Bay Islands Ecological Reserve, the Chain Islets are a literal maze of small islands, reefs, and rocks where sea eagles, cormorants, gulls, and other birds nest and where migratory species pause along their journeys. Covered in patches of plumose anemones, colonies of sharp edged barnacles, and colorful sponges and cup anemones, the underwater environment is a lively place where rockfish and red Irish lords, greenlings, perch, and other fish make their way from one feeding ground to the next. Patches of beautiful bull kelp add a lovely dimension to the site, which is also teeming with seals and sea lions that often watch curiously to see what you’re doing in their world. There are several different places to explore here; as you do so, be cautious of the current and use careful finning techniques to avoid stirring up the silt that covers the bottom in some areas. Go with a local guide if possible; he or she can point you toward the best portions of the islets to prevent you from using up air on a wild goose chase. On the way, listen for whale songs and once back on your boat, keep an eye out for otters and the occasional whale, particularly during migrations.
With such large areas to choose from and countless opportunities for exploration, it’s not surprising that the number of named dive sites in the Victoria area is continuing to grow. Local dive shops have their own favorites, and when you visit, you’re certain to come up with your own. Be prepared for cold water, surprising colors, and a fantastic experience overall; this area offers some of Canada’s very best diving.