What if you knew there was a place for divers that was almost as great as the Galapagos Islands, but not as remote? Fortunately, that place exists. The Coiba Islands of Panama are the Galapagos Islands of Central America. The islands and surrounding waters have been turned into the Coiba National Park and Special Marine Reserve and for good reason. Much like the Galapagos Islands, the Coiba Islands are home to many endemic species and species that are endangered.
This special area has three of the most productive ecosystems in Central America: mangrove swamps, coral reefs, and tropical rainforests. The islands in the park include Coiba, Rancheria, Jicaron, Jicarita, Afuerita, Canal de Afuera, Uvas, Contreras, Pajaros, and Brincanco. It is here that many species that no longer live anywhere on mainland Panama still thrive in the wild. Some of these species include the scarlet macaw, the crested eagle, and the Coiba agouti, which is a special species of howler monkey. An amazing 36 species of mammal, 147 species of birds, and 39 species of amphibians and reptiles have been recorded as living on the islands.
So what’s beneath the waves? It is here that divers find a unique paradise of thriving coral reefs and multitudes of fish. In fact, the majority of the marine life found in the waters surrounding the Coiba Islands are endemic to the area, including 90% of the mollusks and 80% of the fish. This means that divers get to see marine life that they can see in no other place on Earth. Some of the reefs around Coiba are more than 5,000 years old and the waters hold 760 species of fish, 33 species of sharks and rays, and over 20 species of marine mammals.
What marine life can divers see as they explore the water’s depths? First of all, the coral reefs are stunning and they are extensive. Protected by the calm waters of the Gulf of Chririqui, the coral reefs offer important protection for many marine species and they provide a home to many species including crabs, lobsters, eels, octopi, starfish, seahorses, nudibranchs, pipefish, harlequin shrimp, and frog fish. The reefs of Coiba occupy more space than any other reef system in the Eastern Tropical Pacific. Black coral can be seen as well as other types of coral, sponges, and sea fans.
What about sharks? There are numerous species of sharks in the waters of Coiba, including the hammerhead, white tip reef shark, scallop shark, whale shark, Galapagos shark, the bull shark, tiger shark, and guitar shark. Then of course there are the rays, which are part of the shark family. This includes the giant manta, the Thurston’s devil ray, stingrays, and mobula rays. Swimming with these great creatures is awe-inspiring and perfectly safe as there is such an abundance of marine life that they do not pose a danger to humans.
Marine mammals are also residents in the area, which is spectacular for divers. Pods of dolphins are frequently seen. Orcas, pilot whales, sperm whales, Brydes whales, and fin whales are also commonly sighted in the waters of Coiba. There are also the spectacular humpback whales, which use Coiba as a mating and breeding ground as they migrate to and from Antarctica.
The waters in Coiba National Park have a very quick drop off, which means that deep ocean pelagic conditions are experienced close to shore. The water can also have a steep thermocline and depending on the time of year, the water temperatures can be reduced to 15 C (64 F). For this reason, it is advised for divers to wear either a dry suit or 5-7 mm wetsuit when diving in Coiba. As for visibility, divers generally have very good visibility at 12-25 m (40-80 feet). Divers should keep in mind that the level of variability depends on the conditions of the current, thermocline, and tides.
When diving in Coiba, you can book your dives daily and leave from Santa Catalina each day or you can book a liveaboard and spend a number of days touring the islands to get the best experience. There are a wide variety of dive sites; calm, shallow sites in protected coves, reefs, and break rocks offer up an abundance of marine life and are great for novice divers. The other end of the diving spectrum are the pinnacles and seamounts that rise from the depths of the ocean floor. It is at these sites that divers can witness how the many species of marine life relate to one another.
The Coiba Islands and the Coiba National Park and Special Marine Reserve serve an important role in today’s increasingly threatened ocean environment. Fishing has long been done in the waters around Coiba and fish reserves are low. However, now that the area is largely protected, the many fish species of Coiba have a refuge, a place where they can breed and where the young can grow and mature in safety. This is crucial for the biodiversity of the area and for the fishing industry.
Panama and the Coiba Islands are relatively low key on the diving radar. This means that it is virgin territory. There have been issues with poaching and illegal logging on the islands, but overall the pristine habitat both above and beneath the waves has been kept intact. This is good news for the divers who decide to venture to Panama to seek out the adventure of Coiba. With such an abundance of flora and fauna, there is plenty to experience and to photograph. Be sure that your underwater camera equipment is of good quality and in good shape because you just never know what you’re going to see.