Lying about five kilometers south of Kilmore Quay, which is at the end of the L29 about 23 kilometers from Wexford, the Saltee Islands are a marine sanctuary, and are also well known for their avian life. Only diveable during slack water, as tidal currents can be overpowering, the islands offer many dive sites suitable for a variety of skill levels, and while you can rent boats, there are local dive clubs that will be happy to help you explore the islands. Here are just five of the many wonderful sites available.
SS Lenox
The broken remains of a steamship, the SS Lenox, lie along the back edge of Great Saltee, parallel to Collough Rocks. The ship’s bow, which is still recognizable, points out toward sea as though wishing to sail again. Often done as a second dive, she is sitting in depths between 10 and 18 meters, and is well sheltered from prevailing southwest winds. Suitable even for novice divers to explore, the wreck is marked by a buoy and covered in patchy kelp. Sunk in 1916 after an encounter with an enemy submarine, the ship is just over 107 meters long and was built in 1895. Fortunately, her entire crew was rescued prior to her sinking. Highlights of the dive include a look at the 3 cylinder engine and a visit with the congers that live among the wreckage.
Coninbeg Rock
A huge rock, that rises up from the seabed 45 meters below, Coninbeg Rock can be seen clearly at low water, and even when covered, a line of breakers reveal its top. Prone to strong currents, but fascinating for expert divers to explore, the rock features the remains of an old lighthouse as well as the scattered remains of an unknown wreck. Nearby, smaller rock formations allow for exploration at shallower depths. Watch for bream, Pollock and whiting, and enjoy the sight of the sea anemones waving in the current as you pass.
The Brandies
A pair of rocks south of the smallest Saltee Island, The Brandies are sometimes visible at low tide, and between them, a field of boulders, a few gullies, and some fascinating rock formations covered in anemone and sponge await. You can make a quick dive to both rocks, or divide the site in two and enjoy a more leisurely exploration.
At West Brandy, the seaward side drops away to a depth of 35 meters, allowing a good look out into the blue beyond. At East Brandy, you’ll find a small wreck, the Verfradio lying atop a submerged rock at a depth of 20 meters, and if you like, you can explore below the wreck to a depth of 33 meters. Look for congers in the wreck, along with whiting and other fish.
The Lismore
Lying beneath 38 meters of water and accessible at about 35 meters, the wreck of the Lismore is quite broken up, but is still fascinating. Not only can you see the boilers and the drive shaft, plus a pair of huge propellers, you can find all sorts of fish, including bib, whiting and Pollock, not to mention some friendly congers and lots of wrasse. Crabs and lobsters are everywhere, particularly among the metal plates that have collapsed over the years. Currents are variable and can change quickly, making this site suitable only for experienced divers.
Coningmor Rock
The larger of the pair of rocks known as the Coning Rocks, Coningmore Rock rises up from the surface, and underwater, depths vary from 20 to 30 meters. Here, you’ll find lots of anemones and crustaceans, along with plenty of fish, but the main draw to the site is a colony of seals, which often come to meet divers underwater. Be sure to bring your camera; remember not to harass or chase the seals as they are easily annoyed and can inflict serious injuries when agitated.
As there are no local airfills available, you will need to arrange for fills prior to the trip, normally through one of the dive clubs that travels to the region frequently. If you decide to rent a boat and dive these sites on your own, be sure to pay close attention to tide tables.