British Columbia’s Pacific Rim National Park encompasses an enormous 49,962 hectares of land and ocean, where temperate northwestern old growth rain forests meet a dramatically rugged coastline that is breathtaking in its expansive beauty. In some places, the Pacific Ocean is relentless as it continues to shape the rocky shoreline; in others, divers find themselves embraced by clear, calm water. Here are five splendid sites that are certain to mesmerize.
Tofino
The little town of Tofino, which welcomes visitors to the Pacific Rim National Park, is known for its pristine beaches and local artisans, not to mention its surf breaks and fishing. You can dive here all year, but to experience the best visibility, come during the winter months or in early spring before the algae blooms, and you’ll be treated to visibility at 80 feet or better. There are a few different places to explore off Tofino, including Eagle Island, the wreck of the SS Hera, and the little island of Tonquin. There are some great places to snorkel, and in between dives, you can enjoy whale watching or just relax in a sunny spot with a seasonally appropriate beverage in hand. There’s something for everyone here – even non-divers will enjoy themselves.
Barkley Sound and Renate’s Reef
Situated inside the boundaries of the national park, this underwater wonderland is often accessed by boat from Port Alberni, or if you want to do some shore diving, there is a gravel logging road that leads out to the Bamfield area, where you can explore to your heart’s content without worrying about a set schedule. Renate’s Reef itself is just one of the many excellent sites sheltered by the more than 100 islands of the Broken Island Group; here, as with other nearby sites, you can enjoy great diving even when nearby sites are undiveable due to poor weather. The top of the reef is at about 10 meters, and it meets the seabed at a depth of about 30 meters. Though it is subject to surge and large swells at times, when the weather is right it’s suitable for all divers. With a pair of ridges covered in lush anemones in different shapes and sizes, the site offers splendid topography, including a swim through and plenty of overhangs, grottoes, and cracks, all bursting with colorful life. This is a good place to look for six gill sharks during the summer months, and in cooler weather, sea lions are commonly encountered. Watch for wolf eels, schooling rockfish, greenlings and sea perch, sculpins, and lots of different crustaceans, along with several species of nudibranchs.
Port Alberni
A lovely little seaside community situated at the tip of a 48 kilometer long inlet, Port Alberni offers access to some world class diving, not to mention fishing, whale watching, and all sorts of fantastic outdoor adventures. While there are several different sites to dive here, there are two which deserve special mention.
First, the China Creek Wall, which can be accessed either by boat or from shore, via a gravel logging road that leads to the China Creek Marina and Campground, where campsites are available for everything from tents to luxury RV’s. The wall itself is situated to the left side of the beach, where you can see some cliffs onshore. In the shallows, masses of sunflower stars, schooling perch, and lots of other creatures thrive, but the visibility is not the greatest, particularly during the summer months. Once you get to 20 feet, you’ll find that visibility improves dramatically, enabling you to get a good look at all the creatures that live here, plus some interesting artifacts that are strewn along the top of the wall. There’s a small dingy wreck, plus a small boat wreck that looks a little like a miniature version of a tugboat, plus there is a phone booth, which makes for some interesting photos. All around, you’ll find wolf eels, including some juveniles, plus there are decorated warbonnets, sculpins, and lots of different rockfish species. The wall drops away to meet the sloping bottom at a depth of about 120 feet, technical divers are sure to find even more interesting things a bit further out.
Second, the Immigrant Wreck, which is also near the campground, is a 150 foot ship that was deployed to act as an artificial reef in 1999. This wreck was planted here by the Alberni Artificial Reef Society, and is perched on the edge of a deep wall. There is quite a thermocline here, but visibility can be very good, even in summer. The ship’s bow is pointing down, resting at a depth of 110 feet. The propeller is at a depth of 80 feet, and the top of the stern is at 60 feet. Despite the fact that this ship has been here for quite some time, it is fairly devoid of life but for some plumose anemones, a few fish, and some wolf eels. Fun to explore, and suitable for careful penetration thanks to several openings, the wreck is dark and mysterious. Be sure to bring a good light, and don’t go inside unless you are properly qualified and equipped.
Clayoquot Sound
Surrounded by beautiful beaches, and featuring small tree covered islands that rise up like jewels from its beautiful aqua waters, Clayoquot Sound is a splendid place to get away from it all. A paradise for kayakers and divers alike, this area features a number of reefs, walls, and soaring underwater rock formations teeming with life. Colorful sponges and encrusting algae, swathes of anemones in shades from brilliant white to hot pink and crimson, and sea stars in every shape, color, and size imaginable can be found here, along with orange burrowing sea cucumbers and nudibranchs, all of which combine to create a splendid living backdrop for an almost unbelievable amount of rockfish, lingcod, sculpin, and greenling. Salmon can be seen here at times as well, and with them come hunting seals and sea lions. This area is also home to sea otters and bald eagles.
Dawley Passage Provincial Park
A bit more challenging than some other popular Pacific Rim dive sites, Dawley Passage Provincial Park features a number of different areas where you can explore the magnificent underwater rock formations that mimic those found on shore. With crystal clear waters teeming with colorful life, including thousands of invertebrates, plentiful fish, and many types of crabs and other crustaceans, this area is both beautiful and bountiful; be cautious however, as currents can be swift. As with other nearby sites, you are likely to encounter seals and other marine mammals as you explore.
With an amazing history and a rich natural heritage, plus mammals, birds, reptiles and amphibians, this area was inhabited by the Nuu-chah-nulth people for thousands of years before the first white explorers came to Vancouver Island. You’ll find plenty to see and do topside between dives, and enjoy first-rate hospitality, wherever you decide to stay. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself longing to return the moment you leave.